Porches & Covered Entries
Low-slope porch roofs sit flatter than your main roof, which means water doesn't run off as quickly. Shingles rely on gravity to shed water fast—when the pitch is too low, moisture works its way under the overlaps and causes leaks. Rubber roofing for porches and additions creates a sealed surface where water can sit temporarily without penetrating. The material also handles railings, posts, and architectural details better because you're sealing around them with continuous membrane rather than cutting and overlapping individual shingles.

Garage & Addition Roofs
Garages and additions often get built with lower pitch than the main house roof—sometimes because of ceiling height limits, sometimes to keep construction costs down. EPDM roofing for houses makes sense in these spots, especially when the section isn't highly visible from the street. The material performs reliably and costs less than some alternatives. Since it's rubber, it won't rot like wood or rust like metal, and you're not repainting every few years.

Low-Slope Sections on Modern & Split-Level Homes
Some modern home designs and split-level builds intentionally create low-slope planes for aesthetic reasons. These sections need membrane materials that tolerate the shallow pitch. Low slope EPDM roofing works here, but drainage planning matters—you'll need slight slope built in with tapered insulation or proper scuppers and drains. Without that, even durable membranes will fail early because constant standing water degrades seams and fasteners over time.

EPDM
Synthetic rubber, usually black, with a long performance history on flat roofs. The main difference between EPDM and TPO? Color and how seams get joined. EPDM uses adhesive or tape; TPO gets heat-welded.
Pros: Cost-effective among single-ply systems. Good flexibility handles temperature changes. Proven durability in various climates.
Watch-outs: Dark surface absorbs more heat unless you choose lighter EPDM formulations. Shows dirt and debris more than light-colored membranes.

TPO
Thermoplastic membrane, typically white or light gray. Seams get heat-welded together, creating stronger bonds than adhesive systems. Reflects more sun than dark EPDM, which can matter when the flat section sits above living space.
Best for: Situations where reflectivity and energy efficiency matter. Heat-welded seams when done correctly resist leaks better than adhesive bonds.

Modified Bitumen
Asphalt-based roll system applied in multiple layers. Shorter expected service life than single-ply membranes—typically 12-15 years vs 20-25 for EPDM. Lower upfront material cost.
Best for: Budget-driven projects. Garages and outbuildings where longevity matters less. Situations where you'll replace the roof again in 10-15 years anyway.

We handle residential EPDM roofing on porches, additions, garages, and low-slope sections—not just large commercial buildings. The difference matters because residential flat roofing involves more transitions: where the flat section meets walls, where it ties into pitched roofing, around railings and posts on porches. These details require careful flashing and sealing. Poor execution at transitions is where most flat roof leaks start.
Substrate preparation determines how long the membrane lasts. If the decking underneath is soft, rotted, or uneven, the EPDM will fail early no matter how good the material is. We inspect the substrate during estimates and flag problems before installation. Drainage planning also matters—even rubber membranes need some path for water to move off the surface. That might mean slight slope built with tapered insulation, properly sized scuppers, or drains positioned correctly.